Best Airsof Gun Cheap

AirsoftGunReviews79

Best Airsof Gun Cheap

AirsoftGunReviews79

Best Airsof Gun Cheap

AirsoftGunReviews79

Best Airsof Gun Cheap

AirsoftGunReviews79

Best Airsof Gun Cheap

AirsoftGunReviews79

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Video - HWS Remington 1858 New Model Army

HWS Remington 1858
Remington 1858

HWS Remington 1858

Not so much a written review at the moment (there is a fantastic one currently on justpistols.co.uk) this is more of a hands on video, which to my knowledge is the only footage of one on the internet! I'll be adding annotations in the next day or so for those who are interested.
 Anyway, enjoy: 

REVIEW - TOKYO MARUI GLOCK 17 3RD GENERATION GAS BLOWBACK AIRSOFT PISTOL (STOCK)

TOKYO MARUI GLOCK 17 3RD GENERATION GAS BLOWBACK AIRSOFT PISTOL (STOCK) REVIEW

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REVIEW INDEX


Review introduction1.1: Purpose
1.2: Background
1.3: Introduction
1.4: Purchase


Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation Gas Blowback Airsoft Pistol (Stock) Review2.1: First impression
2:2: Appearance
2.3: Features
2:4: Performance
2:5: Accuracy
2:6: Conclusion



Review introduction

1.1: PurposeThe purpose of this review is to write an unbiased, objective and detailed review for the Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation Gas Blowback airsoft pistol. This review will be based on the stock version of the pistol. I will include an additional three parts to this review. Part two being the parts review for all the upgrade parts and how they differ in terms of quality and performance versus the original parts. Part three will be a review of the upgraded version of the airsoft pistol. I also intend to add a part four which will be tips and maintenance regarding the Glock 17.


1.2: BackgroundI just wanted to input some brief background about myself and my experience with airsoft so you can better understand my starting point for this review. I have been actively using airsoft pistols for the last 15 years, starting with Marui springers, then moving my way up to gas blowback airsoft pistols, and now lately I have moved on to gas blowback airsoft rifles.

Throughout all of this I have always been in the role of a collector and plinker. Only just recently this year (May 2011) did I play my first indoor CQB skirmish. I wasn't too happy with the particular site that was available to me so I only played once more since. So my outlook in this review will be based from a collector and plinkers perspective. Also note that because of this, and the lack of testing space, I cannot perform an accuracy test longer than 6m nor can I do a field/skirmish test.


1.3: IntroductionBeing the "collector" that I am I set out a goal for myself, that I will purchase all the Tokyo Marui gas blowbacks that I find appealing and then proceed to fully upgrade them. This process started with the Tokyo Marui FN 5-7, then I moved on to the Tokyo Marui Beretta M9 and recently I attempted to do the same with the Tokyo Marui Colt 1911A1, which failed miserably due to getting incompatible parts, so that project is currently on hold. 

So now it's the Glocks turn. This piece has me rather excited, although I have always had a bit of a love/hate relationship with Glocks. They aren't particularly good looking, but they are (preconceived notion) durable and practical, and in general highly respected pistols. I have a KSC Glock 19 and a Marushin Dual Maxi Glock 21 already, but none of these please my Glock needs.

So as with previous "project airsoft pistols" I set off to purchase the pistol itself, a few spare magazines and pretty much any and all available upgrades I see fit.

Some of you may think this is stupid, elitist or snobbish or whatever, but this is how I like to do things, no snobby-ness intended.


1.4: PurchaseThe parts were purchased from WGC Shop (Hong Kong) and AirsoftGlobal (Hong Kong). Here is a complete parts list: 

1x Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation GBB
2x Tokyo Marui 26 round GBB magazines
1x Guarder Glock 17 Enhanced Kit (Black)
- 1x Fiber reinforced polymer frame
- 1x Aluminum slide
- 1x Steel outer barrel
- 1x Recoil spring guide
- 1x 150% hammer spring
- 1x Steel magazine catch
- 1x Steel trigger lever
- 1x Serial number plate
1x Guarder steel night sights
1x NINE BALL precision inner barrel
1x Guarder enhanced polycarbonate loading muzzle
1x PDI piston head
1x ACTION 8mm hammer bearing set
1x Shooters Design CNC steel valve knocker
3x ACTION enhanced magazine lip
3x Shooters Design magazine base plates (with Glock logo)
3x Shooters Design enhanced magazine gasket
1x MAG spring replacement set


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Please note though that this part (part one) is only a review of the stock airsoft pistol. Links to the other parts of the review will be listed at the bottom.

So let's get on with the review!


Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation Gas Blowback Airsoft Pistol (Stock) Review


SpecificationsBuild materials: ABS plastic (mainly), metal details and internals
Color: Black
Caliber: 6mm
Capacity: 25+1 rounds*
Height: 186mm
Length: 97mm
Weight unloaded: 409g
Weight loaded (empty magazine): 707g
Weight loaded (with BBs): 712g
Weight loaded (with BBs and gas): 717g
Weight of magazine (empty): 298g
Weight of magazine (with BBs): 303g
Weight of magazine (with BBs and gas): 308g
FPS: ~300**
Hop Up: Adjustable
Trigger action: Single action only
Firing mode: Semi-automatic


* Recommended magazine capacity 23+1 to allow magazine spring to move freely against loading nozzle when inserting the magazine with the slide in its forward position.
** FPS measured with XCORTECH X3200 chronograph, average of 10 shots, 26C ambient temperature, Guarder Powerful Gas 
12kg/140PSI@24C, Tokyo Marui 0.2g BB.



2.1: First impressionMy first impression when opening the UPS package from WGC is "what the hell happened to my box";
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The retail box has been brutalized by WGC staff (I do not live in the US). WHY ?! 


It seems as this has had the "US" treatment in having all the trademarks thoroughly and brutally removed. I am not really pleased with this as I have OCD and am a perfectionist, but what can you do…

So getting over the initial scare with the box let's open it up and see what we've got; 

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Not even the manual has been spared from having the trades removed.


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Thankfully I was spared from the orange muzzle and covered up trades (although they were covered with easily removed grip tape). Night sights included for additional sight sighting.


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The addition of dry-firing magazine clips is a nice feature! No more holding down the slide catch!


Not a big surprise here, it's the standard Tokyo Marui gas blowback package inside, with an additional bonus of night sights!

Here's a complete list of the box' contents; 

1x Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation Gas Blowback airsoft pistol (picture)
1x Tokyo Marui Glock 17 26 round gas magazine (picture)
1x Cleaning rod (picture)
1x Muzzle plug (picture)
1x Front and rear night sights (picture)
1x Bag of BBs (picture)
2x Dry firing magazine clips (picture)
1x Hop Up tag (picture)
1x Information notice (picture)
1x Instructions manual (picture)
5x Shooting targets (picture)
1x Warranty card (picture)
1x Airsoft safety illustrations (picture)
1x Night sights installation instructions (picture)


Allright, moving on to the actual airsoft pistol itself. 

Upon picking it up it doesn't give me that "wow" feeling that I used to get when unboxing airsoft pistols. This is however more likely due to my senses being dulled (been buying quiet a lot of airsofts lately) rather than the Glock 17 being a disappointment, because it truly isn't. It holds up to the tried and tested Marui standards, being that it feels and looks great. 

The plastic has a nice finish and the racking of the slide sounds like a house coming down on you, really crisp. It feels good in the hand and rather light, but that is to be expected from a (plastic) Glock. Shaking it around produces a light rattling sound made by the outer barrel hitting against the slide, but other than that it feels solid and with tight fit all around.

Eager to test fire it I filled up a magazine with gas and proceded to dry fire it. NICE! The blowback is loud and crisp but lacking a bit in punch due to the slide being so light, but this is to be expected.


2:2: Appearance


Looking at the Marui Glock 17 overall appearance, it looks really nice. The plastic has a nice finish and color to it, both slide and frame.

Moving on to the slide, which is also plastic, with the exception of the rear blowback unit "plate" (actually part of the BBU) and a reinforced metal frame at the front of the slide, where the recoil spring guide goes. This is to reinforce the slide so it can handle the hefty blowback action. Historically plastic slide Glocks (various brands) have been known to blow off the front after prolonged use with heavier propellants, such as propane or Green Gas.

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The slide has accurate Glock markings (as far as I know) on both sides;

Left side: GLOCK (logo) 17 AUSTRIA 9x19

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Right side: SYMBOL NPv DMD076

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Unfortunately the slide has some rather unappealing seam lines going all around the slide, the front and back being the worst but also running all along the top sides.

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Moving on to the outer barrel, also plastic (see a trend here?); there's not much to say about it. It is a one piece molded design and has the standard Glock (AFAIK) markings;

Top side: 9x19

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Right side: DMD076 SYMBOL NPv ADC

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One thing I did note, which I don't know whether it's by design or a flaw, is that the outer barrel seems to be pushed down towards the bottom of the front hole in the slide, giving the impression that it's pointing down. Maybe too high tolerance for the hole in the slide? Or maybe it's to accommodate the tilting barrel locked breech design (more likely).

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Allright, we're done with the top half, let's take a look at the frame! The frame, also being plastic (surprise!) actually looks really nice. The color and finish, as well as the grip texture and markings stand out nicely. The seam lines on the frame look to be almost better than those on a real Glock, judging by the pictures I've seen.

Unfortunately the frame does not feature correct trademarks all the way around. I'm not sure if it's an ASGK policy or Marui just likes to brand their gas blowbacks this way;

Left side: GLOCK (logo)

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Right side;
MADE IN JAPAN ASGK
TOKYO MARUI CO.,LTD.

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GAS BLOW BACK SYSTEM
TMC-P9M-7731

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Serial number plate;
DMD076S

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Phuh! Just a little more to go; let's take a look at the magazine! Guess what, the magazine is NOT plastic! YAY! Well, some of it is. The magazine has a nice matte black finish for the shell and the baseplate has a finish matching the rest of the pistols plastic details.

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The base plate has a hole in it so you can fill the magazine with gas without having to fiddle with removing the base plate.

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The magazine also features some Glock markings, namely on the back, where Marui has faithfully reproduced the ammo indicator holes (non-functioning here for obvious reasons).

Rear side;
GLOCK (logo)
AUSTRIA

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The baseplate has been blessed with Tokyo Marui markings rather than the Glock logo (like the real steel magazines).

Bottom;
TOKYO MARUI
GLOCK
MADE IN JAPAN

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Okay, we're almost done, stay with me now (coffee brakes are allowed!). Let's take a quick look inside the Marui Glock while we are at it.
 

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Not much to say really, clean and simple internals. 
You maybe buy Tokyo Marui Glock 17 3rd Generation Gas Blowback on Amazon with cheap

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Reviews - VFC UMP .45 GBB


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This is my initial review of the VFC UMP .45. While I have had this particular GBBR since May, events have transpired against me actually using it for a while which I will detail below. Many folks have been looking at VFC's second SMG GBB offering with great trepidation considering the whole mess with their gas powered MP5. I was initially not keen on the VFC UMP, but my brother overseas told me to buy one for him so I happily took his money (and some of mine) and bought one from a local retailer with a total of 4 mags for about $555 (yes, we get price gouged here when it comes to airsoft guns).

The VFC UMP .45 comes in a nice, HK labeled box with one magazine, a suppressor, manual, hop adjustment tool and an extra recoil spring inside that promises to bring down the power level if you so desire. Chrony readings on an a F1 Chrony puts the power of the UMP at around 370 FPS, good enough for CQB here.

First off, externals. The VFC UMP .45 is a lovely, lovely gun. Full trades everywhere, including the bolt. Proof marks on the left side. Of course, none of that was in doubt because the gun is made by VFC, who has a reputation of making excellent traded guns (while ignoring somewhat the internals, as far as gas powered weapons are concerned).

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The trades continue on to the magazine, which again, have the correct trades.

Much like the real thing, the gun has several fire modes, which include a 2 round burst. The VFC UMP does not have forearm rails - it only includes a top rail where you can mount optics. The iron sights are similar to the ones included in the G36C.

Picking up the gun, most users will immediately notice just how light the gun is. I don't have an exact number on exactly how light the gun is, but it's way lighter than a WE G36 or even a KWA MP9. Even the magazine is extremely light, which makes it an excellent choice for people looking for a gun they can run with.

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Loading the firing the UMP is similar to the real deal. You will need to lock the bolt back via the charging handle on the gun, insert the magazine then unlock the bolt again, via HK slap. You can also just insert the magazine into the gun, and charge it via the charging handle.

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Shooting the gun is a real pleasure, as it probably has the strongest blowback action of any GBBR I've ever fired. This is a result of the relatively light body on the gun, the extremely heavy bolt and the unique buffer on the recoil spring on the gun. The gun locks back on the last round. You can also fire the gun with the stock folded. The hop up is accessed in front of the gun via an allen key, similar to how you adjust the hop on an KSC MP7.

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The gun can be taken apart by taking out a pin on the back of the gun. Take that out, and you'll be able to access the lower receiver with the FCG.

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The funky recoil spring.

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The extremely heavy bolt.

While the gun is beautiful externally, it did have a few problems right out of the box that prevented me from using it a month ago. As expected, the Achilles heel of the gun is the magazines, and in the UMP's case, it's the gas route bucking on top of the mag. All four of the gas route buckings on  top of the gun ripped in a few shots, which completely infuriated me. It's a design flaw that's supposedly been fixed by now by VFC, and in their defense, they did send me replacement buckings for the ones that ripped for free, express via EMS, so kudos to them for that gesture.

After fixing the buckings, the next problem that I encountered was that the magazines started to leak. So I opened the magazine up and reseated the seals on the bottom of the magazine properly, which seemed to fix the leaks on all the magazines. So far, so good.

Another annoying thing with the gun is the hammer. The UMP uses a hammer with a roller. The pin that holds the roller in place is extremely lose, and has a tendency to walk out if you do not loctite it. I loctited mine with the red (permanent) solution, which also stopped the movement of the roller altogether, but it doesn't seem to affect performance at all. The spring on the trigger also managed to walk out during my first outing with the gun, but I managed to sort it again and loctited that sucker into place. No problems with the FCG now.

As far as performance is concerned, the UMP managed to empty a full magazine (around 20 rounds, more on this later), in full auto, without any problems. With the new rubbers in place, the UMP did not exhibit any of the cool down problems that were evident in this guy's video.

One of the things that really annoyed me with the UMP's magazine (aside from the leaking problem) was it's stiff magazine spring. Seriously, it's extremely difficult to load more than 17 bbs in the gun because of the stiff springs, and I only really managed to load 20 rounds all in all into the gun. Might either cut the springs or find a way to replace them.

I won't be putting accuracy tests on this review as I forgot my hop adjuster during yesterday's skirmish, suffice to say it's more than capable of putting rounds on target on a CQB setting.

That's it for the review for now.

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 Reviews by calbur20

Reviews - PTW clones( DTW A&K etc)


As everyone knows using a TW gets you the girls, other men envy you, pregnant woman go into labour in your presence and you could have joined a leet SF unit but your dear old mum has a bad back and you couldn't leave her to fend for herself whilst you traveled the world killing bad guys.

One of the downsides of the TW platform, up to this date, has been the high price. The original PTW is over £1100, the CTW is in the £600-£800 quid range and this is just for a standard model. When you want to make it unique with your own different rails, grip, etc then the price soon rises even more.

There has been rumours for a while about a Far East built TW and a company called G&D have now started selling a TW platform for around the £200 mark. Add postage and UK custom fees and it comes in at around £300. (seriously HM government did you really need to charge me £58 quid to allow it onto these fair shores?).

I'm going to do this review in two parts:

Part 1 will be how it looks, fires, mag compatibility and build quality
Part 2 will be compatibility with the other TW platforms.

So let's get some pictures chucked in here as I know everyone loves pictures.
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this is what you get when you open the plain brown box with a simple label attached. The only other thing in the box is a unjammer/mag loader thingy. The unjammer is probably the most funky coloured one I have seen, The picture below doesn't really do the colour justice. Let's just say that if you drop it you won't have much trouble finding it from 50 meters away.
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It would have been nice to have a allen key/hop adjuster, manual and instructions in the box but sadly there isn't. So if you need to adjust the hop then you will need a systema one or a allen key the right size.

Build quality:
it's really well put together, nothing loose, rattling or hanging off. All the parts a painted in a nice matt black paint which seems good.

Flash hider - steel -14mm flash hider held on with a 1.5mm allen grub (actually 5/64's but a 1.5mm will work). Being -14mm it allows you to stick on whatever AEG flash hider you have in mind.
Outer barrel - Aluminum one piece outer barrel. The style is M4 unlike most TW's which come with a M4A1 style barrel. Well made and rock solid into the upper receiver.
receiver furniture - mostly cast from a non magnetic metal apart from the dust cover, flash hider and receiver pins.
Fore grips - young gifted and black...sorry got that tune stuck in my head. They are black plastic and look like AEG hand guards and not like TW hand guards. nothing wrong with them and i think most people will probably chuck them for some sort of RIS rail.
Front sight - well made, fits well and looks to be made of aluminum.
delta ring - outer is aluminum and the spring and C clip are steel.
Pistol grip - black plastic and again remind me of an AEG pistol grip. It is TW spec and will only fit on a TW platform so AEG grip won't fit.
Upper and lower receiver - These seem well cast and the trades are nicely done. Added to the fact that they are more realistic than the PTW and CTW is a bonus and you don't have to buy a more accurate receiver to get rid of the PTW/CTW trades. There is a very small bit of play between the upper and lower but not really noticeable. If it annoys the buggery out of you then a Magic pin will be your friend.
Stock pipe - solid, black and not TW spec. PTW stocks won't fit, AEG stocks fit but have a little play. (EDIT - PTW stocks will fit but are really tight)
Stock - I've left the stock to last as it's good and bad. It fits solidly onto the stock pipe and has no play at all. Slides nice and smooth and is finished in a nice black plastic colour. Again it reminds me of a AEG stock but it's not the best design for me.
As you can see in the picture below the stock comes apart in 3 pieces. fitting a battery is possible but not the easiest thing in the world. If you have a crane stock battery then it's probably fine (i'll check out the inner diameter to see if a crane stock battery fits). Fitting a LIPO involved removing the stock, putting the LIPO into the stock pipe, fitting the stock over the battery, fitting the Tamiya connectors and LIPO balance plug down the sides of the crane stock, fitting the stock wedge back on and then putting the butt pad back on.
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This normally wouldn't be a problem as I would just swap to a different type of stock but the stock pipe isn't MIL spec or AEG spec and lives somewhere in between. A PTW/CTW stock won't fit the stock pipe and an AEG stock will fit but with a bit of play. Normally a bit of black electrical tape on the stock pipe would sort this bit I'd need quite a bit of tape to sort out the wobble. The only stock that seemed to fit well was a G&P L119A1 style stock.

Here's a few more pictures of the TW.
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I'm not going to strip the cylinder and hop yet (later tonight). This is just a quick look at the cylinder, hop and barrel and the externals of the gearbox.

The Cylinder is blue anodised and well built. Actually really well built. I'm liking it a lot and until I take it to bits and find it full or problems then I'm saying that it's a good cylinder. The nozzle has very little play, very much like a PTW cylinder, and fires consistently (more on this a little later).
The Hop unit and inner barrel is a mixed bag to be honest but the important thing is that it works. The inner barrel is brass and has the same taper inside the barrel as a Systema 2012 barrel which is a nice feature. The hop unit looks a bit roughly cast as you can see in the pictures but as I just said it works so I can't really complain about how rough the outer casting looks.
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The gearbox looks to be of good quality and sounds and fires fine. I'll take it apart later to have a look inside to see if it's full of monkey metal and spiders. I did notice that one of the gearbox screws was missing from mine but it hasn't effected performance in the slightest. I'll pop one in there just to be on the safe side.
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Ok that's it for build quality. My opinion is that it's a well put together TW with a few minor gripes (annoying stock and missing screw). It very much reminds me of an AEG. What I mean by that is the build and feel reminds me of a G&P or TM SOPMOD M4 and doesn't have the same feel as a PTW. This isn't a negative point just an observation. It can be forgiven if it actually works like a TW...........

Ok on with the firing.

fitted a LIPO 11.1V 1100Mah battery into the stock, Split the upper and lower to check the gearbox was aligned, loaded the supplied DTW magazine with 110 blaster .2g bb's, inserted the mag, pressed the bolt release, switched it to semi and pulled the trigger.......success!
every round fired in semi and auto bursts and the TW stopped when the mag was empty.
loaded the mag again and switched on the Chrono:
381
385
387
383
386
387
393
382
385
386

Average 385.5 FPS. I told you the cylinder was a good yin!

Next I adjusted the hop to give the TW some hop effect. This dropped the FPS to an average of 355 FPS. I don't have the ability to test out the range or how good it was hopping but i'll test this out over the next day or 2. I also want to have a look at the hop to see what's being used to hop the BB. If needed I will mod the hop with a bit of super glue and a larger rubber.

So after success with the supplied mag and I stripped the mag to have a look at it as well. It seems to be a copy of the Systema magazine and the only problem on mine is the base plate is a bit loose. by bending the 4 tabs that hold it in place will sort this out. The mag feels like a VANARAS one and is quite lightweight. Here's a picture of the mag inners:
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I like the pins that DTW have used to keep the inner inside the outer. Systema use roll pins which I'm not a big fan of and DTW use locking pins which are easier to remove and seem to do a really good job.

next up was a magazine compatibility test. I have 4 different mag types here and I tried all 4.
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the results are as follows:
DTW - works
Systema Shell with Vanaras inner - works and is slightly tight in the magwell
RAMPO Pmag shell with Systema inners (LW) - works
Celcius - works but very tight in the magwell and a drop of 10 FPS.

I used 110 blaster 0.2g bb's in the test and all the mags fed flawlessly.

Ok that's it for now next up will be Part 2 but before I go I'm going to say right now that for the price this is a very good TW. I might change my mind when I open the gearbox and find the gears are made of cheese but right now I think this is a very good, well made, cheap TW.


I'm going to split part 2 into 2 parts. I will have a look at the electrics and gearbox tomorrow and tonight I have had a look at the motor, hop unit and cylinder.

first thing first the cocking handle isn't compatible with the other TW's. The DTW one is heavier, missing the wings and a little bit longer than the other TW ones. I can see that they saved a bit of cost by removing the wings as this saves machining inside the upper receiver. The PTW/CTW cocking handles don't fit inside the DTW upper as the DTW upper doesn't have the gap machined for the wings.
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It's not the end of the world if you loose or snap the DTW one as you can use a PTW/CTW one if you cut the wings off.

Moving onto the hop unit and inner barrel. I have used the PTW naming convention on the picture below so if you are reading this and get confused about which part is which then just check out the photo.
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A PTW hop unit won't fit inside the DTW. A MDD and CTW hop unit will with a bit of brute force. The reason for this is because the DTW outer barrel has a 22mm cut out for the hop chamber base. the DTW hop chamber base is 22mm, the CTW is 22.2mm and the PTW is 22.5mm. What this means is that if you want to use a PTW hop unit then you will need to swap the outer barrel for a systema one.
If you look at the picture below you can't really tell there is much difference between the hop chamber bases but after measuring them it turns out there is.
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The inner barrel diameter is 8mm whereas a PTW/VANARAS/CTW inner barrel diameter is 10mm. This means that the chamber sleeve and inner barrel is unique to the DTW barrel.
the Hop adjuster, roller packing and fit pin are not PTW compatible. This is because the square inner barrel cut which houses the hop adjuster is quite rough and the hop adjuster is slightly larger than a PTW hop adjuster.
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I don't know if it's easy to spot in the picture but the hop adjuster on the left is slightly larger.

to clear this part up slightly I will list the hop and barrel parts and say if they are PTW compatible or not.

Hop chamber base - not compatible as the PTW one is too thick
Chamber sleeve - not compatible as the DTW inner barrel is 8mm in diameter
hop adjuster - not compatible
roller packing - more on this below
fit pin - possibly
Inner barrel - the inner barrel along with the complete DTW hop unit does fit inside a PTW.
chamber packing - compatible
chamber packing base - compatible
air seal packing - compatible
adjuster cushion - compatible but looks like a AEG hop up bucking to be honest. It sits side on between the inner barrel and hop adjuster.
barrel key - compatible

If you really don't want to use the DTW hop unit and inner barrel then the best thing to do is replace the outer barrel with a Systema/Celcius/Vanaras one and then the Systema hop unit will fit no problem.
you might have noticed that the roller packing is really thin, even compared to the older PTW roller packing. Once I get a chance to test the hop effect and range I will decide if this needs replacing with a thicker bit of rubber.
I'll also add here that it's not all bad as the DTW hop unit works quite well. The airseal is good and hopefully if there is a problem with the hop effect then replacing the roller packing will sort it out.

Moving on to the cylinder we have some good news. The DTW cylinder is 100% PTW compatible and very well made. All the threads are a match and all the parts are interchangable. the DTW piston is slightly tight on the PTW cylinder sleeve but will loosen up with use.
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The only issue I had was my piston head guide was slightly loose and had to be tightened up before it popped off and buggered the cylinder. (if you buy one of these it's worth checking that it's tight).
I popped a PTW cylinder into the DTW, using the DTW hop unit, and fired a couple of mags with no problems. The FPS was constant and the gearbox handled the M110 cylinder with no problems at all. It might be worth mentioning here that a PTW cylinder will set you back £170 whereas if you buy the DTW just for the cylinder you would end up with a whole TW spare for just £30 quid more!!

Lastly tonight I had a quick look at the motor. I'll be honest it's been a while since I buggered about with magnets, E and M fields and all that 3 finger mumbo jumbo. all I can tell is that the motor seems to be good enough to handle the 385 FPS DTW cylinder with no problem. The trigger responce is as sharp as a PTW. after firing around 1500 bb's now the gearbox still sounds fresh, the motor doesn't seem to labour and rapid fire single shots work everytime.
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conclusions for tonight are:
The DTW is a very good TW. D&G have cut corners to save costs but so far the cuts haven't stopped the DTW from performing well. It's not 100% completely PTW compatible but this is only an issue if you want to put Systema parts into the DTW and even then it's still possible to do but you need to add a few more Systema parts.
I'll finish off tonight by saying the the DTW has a real "pick me up and shoot me" feel. As I have been mucking about today stripping it, trying differnet parts etc everytime I have rebuilt it I've ended up firing a couple of mags through it just for fun.
I had a look at the gearbox and electrics today. Some good news and some bad news but to keep you in suspense I'll put the bad news nearer the bottom. No sneak peeking!

when I stripped the gearbox out of the lower receiver I noticed that I wasn't missing a screw in the gearbox, as seen in the pictures earlier in the review, I'm actually missing 2 screws. Top tip if you buy one of these is to check that the gearbox is actually screwed to the lower receiver.
Another cost saving cut by D&G has been to swap the selector rack gear with a plastic one and not a metal one that you would find in a CTW/PTW. The CTW/PTW ones do fit and I imagine that the plastic one will wear down eventually. The plastic is actually quite strong and should last a while as it's not really under any real load.
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I've put a PTW metal one next to the plastic one for comparison.

The selector and all the little bits that hold it in place are a direct copy of the PTW one. As you can see in the photo it uses a spring, ball bearing and grub screw just like the PTW. The CTW is similar but doesn't use the ball bearing and uses a wierd little thing instead.
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Strangely the bolt release differs from the PTW/CTW platform. The DTW has an extra part which can be seen in the photo below. I think this extra part is to help with the micro switch on top of the ECU being engaged when you press the bolt release.
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The gearbox has now fired around 2000 bb's and hopefully the pictures below will show how little wear, if any, there is on the moving parts in the gearbox.
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The gears are all steel and for those that are interested the sun gear is 2 piece but seems really good quality. In fact the whole gearbox is good quality and the gearbox casing is cast from a non magnetic material. There is no wear on the gearbox sides which suggests that the shimming is spot on. The gears move freely when the gearbox is removed and there is very little lubrication inside the gearbox which is a good thing.
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So that's it for the gearbox. It seems well made, no noticeable wear, Systema compatible and all round good egg. It's time to look at the electrics.......

Removing the Mosfet from the stock uncovers the longest wires ever! It looks like D&G are using one wiring loom for all models. So if you get an M4 model you will end up with quite a bit of extra wiring stuck inside the stock tube.
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If you are going to use a lipo in the stock tube then a bit of tidying of the wires would be recommended. If you want you could chop some of the wiring back and replace the 4 wire control cable with a Systema m4 length one.
The ECU looks very similar to the Systema 2008 model and you can see the 2 types in the picture below.
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The other circuit board in the DTW is the selector switch board which is attached to the side of the gearbox. This board is used to select between semi and auto. I haven't taken a picture of it as I couldn't be bothered as it's tiny and I actually forgot!

Ok on to the bad news.....
The Mosfet and ECU aren't compatible with the PTW. If you use the Systema ECU with the DTW Mosfet this is the result.
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After the smoke had cleared I though "I know I'll stick a Etiny Mosfet in and bob's your uncle". Sadly Bob wasn't your uncle as it refused to work. I then tried a Systema Mosfet and again this didn't work. When you use the DTW ECU and another type of Mosfet when you connect the battery the gears spin without the trigger being pulled and the after a few seconds the fuse pops. I thought it might be a polarisation problem but swapping the motor wires around didn't work either.

On the plus side the selector switch board is compatible with the PTW/CTW.
So if you break or burn out a board on the DTW then you have 2 options:

Option 1 - try to get a new DTW board (I'm currently working on this and will let you know how easy it is to get spare parts)
Option 2 - replace the Mosfet and ECU with another brand. My suggestion would be the Etiny Mosfet and ECU which will set you back £170

Just to clarify this wasn't the DTW breaking. This was me breaking the DTW.

For the techie type people out there what actually happened was one of the small logic chips burned out. I think it's called Y3 (printed on top of the chip) but can't see as it has melted away. The chip is called Q2 on the PCB. The PCB is manufactured by a Chinese company called JPQC and the board looks to be manufactured on ther 2010/06/03.

So that's pretty much the end of the review. Hopefully I will be able to get a new Mosfet from D&G and get it back up and running and if not I'll probably stick in a Etiny setup.
I did manage to have a bit of a play around with the hop and range today before I destroyed it and I think that adding a thicker rubber will help out as I had the hop turned out quite a bit (remember TW hops are *albartroth* about face) and I wasn't getting as much hop as I would expect. Until I get the new Mosfet I'm unable to test this theory out and hopefully someone else will pick up the challenge when they get their DTW.

My final conclusion:

is it worth the money? yes it's a cheap TW which can be seen in the AEG feel to it but it works well and is 90% compatible with other TW platforms. Mine has fired about 2000 BB's in this review before I blew it up (my fault not the DTW's) The gearbox shows no sign of wear and the cylinder is good quality which means that it should work for a long time. If you wanted to make it 100% PTW compatible then you would need to replace the following parts:

Outer barrel
Inner barrel
chamber sleeve
Hop Chamber base
hop adjuster
ECU
Mosfet
Bolt release

If you are new to the TW platform and decide to buy one of these then my advise would be to leave it alone. Don't replace anything as it's a very good TW out the box. I had pretty low expectations when I ordered this, along with probably quite a few other TW users, however I have been plesently surprised at just how good it is.

Now someone else go buy one and see if the hop needs sorting and how to sort it so that when I get mine back up and running it will save me the hassle!
Reviews by mightyjebus